Corfu Town Trail
With choice of places to visit.
This is a longish thread but it is less than a 5km walk (though that will increase if you chose to visit one of the Forts) as I also cover some History and also some of sights of interest along your route. Sometimes places are closed on Mondays and Sundays so best to avoid those days unless you just wish to walk and maybe just visit Churches and shops. Some places have a fee (usually 3 or 4€ - you can buy a multi ticket for 15€ that covers both Forts and 3 museums but on this walk if you visit just one it will take a full half day. The multi ticket will last for a period of time but it is not suitable for a day trip).
Get the bus from Roda (opposite Afrodite Hotel or by the barbers shop near the traffic lights) to Town. Currently 3.20€ each way. The timetable is on the bus stop; currently there is a bus at 7.10 am and around 10am weekdays (if its still school days then the early bus gets very full).
The bus takes just over an hour and drops you on the edge of Town. See attached Map. This map and many others refer to the nearby Square as San Rocco but it is really Theotoki Square (San Rocco is the area of that part of Town and comes from a Church dedicated to St Rock). Exit the bus and walk back way it came into the Square. Just off here on the road on the right as you enter square (just 50 metres off the junction) is the Patounis Soap Shop and factory. It is open to visit from 9am but you have to make a booking for a guided tour ( phone +30 6976224550). Walk to top right corner of Square from where you enter; there is a stumpy cannon on a small traffic island here dated 1684.
Turn into the road on your left; cross over and take the first road on the right; Odos (road or street) G Mantzarou with a photo shop on the corner. You come to a main road; cross it and go down the road opposite; Odos Vraila. You will see the Cofru Tennis Club to your right side; now all weather but courts used to be either clay or grass. Shortly after and just 10 minutes from the bus stop you see the Archaelogical Museum on your left. No 1 on the map. 3€ fee and takes about 90 minutes to stroll round, reading the notes by the exhibits and looking at videos. It includes the single largest archaic sculpture ever found in Greece; a vast pediment depicting the Gorgon (Medusa) by her children; Pegasus and Chrysaor. Don’t look at her swollen eyes as they turned any who saw them into stone!! There are many other interesting finds of pots, old tools, toys, coins some of which were found at the small Temple in Roda (behind the Roda Inn Hotel on the beachfront).
Turn left on exiting the Museum or go to end road if passing. Garitsa Bay is in front of you; turn left and as you pass the Corfu Palace Hotel go up the steps where you will find No 2 on map; Statue of John Kapodistrias; Corfu born who became 1st President of Independent Greece in 1828. He was assasinated just 3 years later. He is buried in the Platytera Monestry ½ mile up one of the exit roads on Theotoki Square. There is also a fine Musuem in his former house near Evropoli (a suberb of Corfu Town). Behind is a large pink building; it used to be the Ionian University founded by 5th Earl of Guildford. Two building to the right of it is the Cavalieri Hotel…..it has a rooftop restaurant and bar with fine views over the Town (evenings only from 6:30pm). George Rollis a Greek Prime Minister lived there. Further down are a couple grand building slowly being renovated one at cost of near 2.4million euro! Was the home of the artist, Angekos Giallinas. Cross the road and go on the central thoroughfare on the Esplanade (the largest Esplanade in the whole of Europe) and you will see No 3 on the map the Maitland Rotunda. Sir Thomas Maitland was Lord High Commissioner from 1816 to 1824.
Continuing you pass the Bandstand; often the Mantzaros Philomonic play on a Sunday evening. You now approach some blocks ahead and just to the right. These commemorate the Enosis (Union) of The 7 Ionian Islands to Greece. One black for each Island with its name and flag on and the biggest block on a circular base for Greece showing the date of the Union 21st May 1864. This day is celebrated on Corfu each year with Parades.
Keep walking to your right and you will see the entrance to the Old Fort. No 4 on map. Open from 8:30am it costs 3€. Inside is a small Byzantine Museum, café and plenty of walking. The Parthenon like building on the Garitsa Bay side is a Church built by the British in 1840. You can walk and climb up to the lighthouse on the top for great views towards Albania and also over Corfu Town. A visit here will take up to 2 hours if you climb to the top (not recommended in the heat of a summer day).
If you keep walking with the Old fort to your right you can enter a garden area. These gardens are memory to Leslie and Gerald Durrell. At the back of the gardens is a low rail (in bad repair so don’t lean on it!); behind and below is the Contra Fosse (moat) which was seen in the Durrells TV series. Exit the gardens by the centre gate (near here is a bust of Gerald Durrell) and turn right. In the corner a small Church and next to it a gate into more gardens with busts of famous writers. In here you will find the Municipal Art Gallery – free but sometimes has exhibitions with a small charge.
Looking to your left is a car park and an expanse of green. This is No 5 on map the Cricket Pitch with its matting wicket. The whole areas was flattened by the British to make a Parade Ground and also the Cricket pitch. Horse racing was also held here. On Sundays after Church it is said the British Soldiers were made to Parade for up to 3 hours. In 2022 Yeth Cricket Club of Roda won the Greek Cricket Cup Final.
At the North end of the Esplanade is the large imposing building of the Palace of St Michael and St George; No 6 on map. This was built by the British between 1818 and 1823. The statue in front is Sir Frederick North who succeeded Maitland as Lord High Commissioner.Along the cornice to the front are emblems of the 7 Ionian Islands; there was also on top a Corcyraean galley with a statue of Britannia on the stern. This no longer exists. The Palace was bombed in WWII and left in bad repair but was eventually fully renovated to its original state. The rooms bear testimony to the opulence of colonial Britain and can be seen if you visit the Museum of Asiatic Art (considered one of the finest collections of its type in the World). Fee 3€. A visit here will take about 90 minutes. The right wing at the front contains a Library.
With your back to the Palace in front to the right you will see the colonnaded walkway of the Liston. However before you reach it you will see a large building with a fine angles stairway also on your right; this is the Corfu Reading Library; it’s a members club really but Guests can be signed in. The Liston itself was originally a Hotel upstairs and was designed and built by the French along the lines of the Rue de Rivoli in Paris. A bit expensive but why not; sit under the arches and look at the fine vaulted ceiling; the old lamps along the side. Great place to people watch especially on a Sunday evening when the locals are at their finest; childen all smart running around on the grass. During the day you will sometimes see a newly married couple parading along with all their guests in tow. Street artists, musicians or a pop up flash dance group could just as easily be seen to brighten your day. The big Parades of St Spirodon all come along here and the Easter pot smashing is held here as well when crowds can easily exceed the population of the Island. There is also Carnival in February when Corfiot sin old Venitian costume with hand held masks promenade along the Liston.
After enjoying your coffee; a tsitsibira (Corfu British Ginger Beer – non alcoholic) or even an Ouzo meze continue along the Liston until a street goes off on the right (The Liston is name of bar next to this turning). This is Odos N Theotoki which is the main road through the Old Town; all the little alleyways of tourist shops and some general shops are to be found here; some Tavernas and coffee shops also. Now is the time to keep your eyes open as there is lots to see……building no. 10 on the left is the home of the Mantzaros Philamonic Band sometimes open to see some old instruments. At no 16 is Corfu Living History (summer only – fee) – this is inside an old Corfu house and well worth a visit. Shortly after there is a Church to both left and right and on the right a large square. Enter the square which has a statue of George Theotokis. Here in summer evenings you sometimes get dance groups in old costume or choirs performing. Note the rubbish bins in the corners of the square; they have a Corfu ship on a ceramic tile on each side of each bin. On the left the large building is the Ionian Bank. Housed in the bank entering via the door at the far end is a Bank Note Museum……..it contains a complete set of every greek banknote ever issued including those of occupying Germany in WWII and entrance is free (Wednesday to Sunday 8am to 3 pm). Passing this door into the far left had corner you will see the door to a Church in front of you. This No 8 on the map..St Spiriodon Church. His embalmed body from the 4th Century is kept in a silver casket in a chamber to the right of the alter. (please note appropriate dress must be worn; no bare shoulders, mini skirts, shorts, vest tops) Church built in 1589: a German bomb had a direct hit but failed to explode. St Spiriodon is Corfu’s Patron Saint and is believed to have saved the Island on several occasions. Four times a year his remains are carried round the Town in Parades – Palm Sunday; Easter Saturday; 11th August and the 1st Sunday in November. Massive crowds are at each of these events.
Retrace your steps back through the square and turn right back onto Odos N Theotoki. It is now mostly shops, tourist, clothes, jewellery but so much more if you keep your eyes open. There are colonades on both sides in places; these keep you in shade in summer and in dry in winter. On the left No. 46 is an old tobacco shop and next is an old greengrocer (here he waters his produce with a small watering can in summer to keep it fresh). Again on the left a Church of St Vasilias; opposite this on the right side note the sculptured heads on the walls above are arches. The next building on the right has an old slab still on the wall. 20 metre further on the right you will see a narrow alleyway; look down and see an arch and bell tower of old Church……go down into a little square and see the old ruined Church of St Apostoli with its wooden doors and shuttered ground floor windows. Return to N Theotoki turning right; opposite you will see lamps like on the Liston and sculptured faces on a house where George Samartzis (artist) lived.
Almost opposite on the right is an alley; this leads to outside seating in a square for the fine Café Bellisimo. There is also the ruin of a small Chapel in the square. Return again to N Theotoki and on your left you will see former house of Vincenzo Boccaciumbi (artist). As the road begins to slope downhill to your right you will see some gates leading to Catholic Church of St Francis monument from 14th Century. As the road bends to the right there is another Church….that of St Antony and St Andrew; facing it is a leather shop which used to be house of Irene Dendrinos a writer. On the left is a pharmacy; turn down the road next to it; Odos Solomou. Follow this road that becomes paved. As you start to go uphill you will see a Church……Catholic Madonna del Carmelo dated 1663. To the right and just before Church there is a grand old house set back; gardens in bit of need of a good tidy and tree a lopping. That house was the Dr’s house in the Durrells TV series. Continue up the increasingly steeper slops; on left a building owned by Epiros (that’s the mainland in North Greece) Society who arrange traditional, dance music etc. You now start to go up cobbolled steps. Again to left The Beer House……excellect selection of craft bottled beers from all over Greece (only open evenings). By step number 6 (yes you will turn around and count them!) note the old door knocker. As you go up steps, restaurants, bars that are all very lively of an evening. Now you arrive on your right at the gate to the New Fort, No 9 on map. This started to be built in 1577 so is only “New” as it is compared to the Old Fort. Again it is Venetian and there are underground passages all the way to the Old Fort as well as tunnels outside the Town Walls. It was from these tunnels that the Greeks crept out to make surprise attacks on the besieging Turks in 1716. You can visit, fee needed. It is closed in winter. Again once at the top there is a fine view over the Town. If you don’t wish to visit, as you have already stopped elsewhere, proceed through the tunnel ahead; this brings you out to a road, cross it into the moat where you find the Market; mostly fish, fruit and veg but there are other items on sale and two tavernas. Its open early until 4pm though most stall start to close around 2pm when you can get some cheaper deals especially of the fish. Now retrace your steps through the tunnel and down the steps until you come to a road on the left. This is a small square with a couple Tavernas. Here you will find a holocaust statue in memory of the 2000 Jews of Corfu who the occupying Germans sent to the gas chambers in 1944. Just past on the left you will see another entrance to the New Fort……this is to the part currently in use by the Greek Navy.
Proceed ahead and turn right at the end of the last building. Opposite you is the old port area; now a car park; childrens play area, and seating. The end further right is shortly to be renovated….the funds have been received but work seems to have been delayed! Follow pavement alongside building (now houses office of Pireaus Bank) and at end is the Spilia Gate (an archway now) one of the 4 gates into the walled Town of old. Keep walking straight ahead, past Black Cat Taverna. Just a few metres passed a fine old building housing the Law Offices and next up under renovation is the Court Building. There is a pedestrian walkway on the right and if you look up you will see stairs leading to a Church…..Greek Orthodox Cathedral. This has various names as originally it was Madonna of the Cave; now some call it St Theodora’s after road of that name and fact that her mummified remains are buried in the Cathedral.
Follow the road now coastal with the old Town Walls down to the sea; Vidos Island is facing you (you can visit this by boat from the Old Port 2€ return). Its very interesting, has old prison; a mausaleam to the Serbian Army, a Scout Camp; picnic areas, a restaurant open very late and some good swimming places. In the building to your right once lived Edward Lear of nonsence limerick fame; he was also a brilliant landscape artist. As the road turns right you see on your right No 10 on the map; the Solomos Museum. Open 9:30 to 1pm Mon to Fri, fee. Solomos was a poet and wrote the Greek National Anthem. It’s a small museum and is only suited to those fluent in spoken and written Greek as the visuals will only take a few minutes to see as will inside of an old house that it is. Keep following the road and about 70metres on the railing by the sea wall you see a ladder chained to the rails. Look over and it goes all way down to rocks by sea. What is it for? Local smugglers; people trafficers from Albania!! Who knows? Just a few metres further on your right are some stairs up to the Church of Panayia Andivouniotissa which is now a Byzantine Museum. Fee. It houses 90 or so Icons from 15th to 19th Centuries and is well worth a visit. Continue along the wall and there are 2 tavernas with outside seating; both are very good. Also a café/ouzerie. Just past the ouzerie on the right is a parking area. Look for house No 9 behind the cars. See if door open, try it if closed. It is well worth a look behind the door………..it is not what you would expect from the street. I will leave it for you to discover for yourselves. Further ahead the road bends to the right; on the corner you can go down to the sea through another of the old Gates. This area known as Faliraki has a restaurant and bathing area and is very popular in the summer months.
You are now at the end of the walk…….from here it is just 2 minutes ahead and you are back on the Liston. Or if you turn around and retrace your steps but keep going with the old port to your right; you will see some old fishing boats in the harbour; the ferry boats to Vidos. Keep walking until you come to a roundabout by entrance to Port area. Keep going on road; there is a Taverna here (expensive) but just past on same side road is the Green Bus Stop where you get your bus back to Roda……..note the timetable in Roda shows time bus leaves Green Bus station so add 10 minutes for time bus at Port (probably bit longer but you don’t want to miss the bus as it’s a long wait til the next one!).